Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Apologies for missing a few of you (well okay, everyone) on Skype this weekend. I've been really hitting the books lately, trying to keep up with class readings, so I've been spending most of my down time in the library. These classes are kicking my butt, but I feel like I'm adjusting well; each week I'm able to read more and more. My work ethic is definitely being challenged, but I'm making my best effort to wrestle it into compliance with the demands of graduate school.

I was listening to a local radio station while reading today, and I came across a beautiful piece of music and I thought I'd share it with all of you. Enjoy.



Friday, October 14, 2011

Visuals

Sorry I haven't posted in a while; I have a lengthy one brewing, but for now I'll throw down some pictures to familiarize you all with my daily visuals. These are from the last few weeks, walking around town, doing my thing. Click on any of these images to view them in greater detail.

Some very old buildings populate Edinburgh,
especially on High Street

I can't remember who this dude is, but he has
a seagull on his head.

View of The Royal Mile from a
side street one early Saturday

This is typical Old Town: cramped streets,
tall buildings, and mossy brick

Sir Walter Scott Memorial

The University's School of Divinity on the left,
Myle's Court student accommodation on the right

View of New Town from the top of Old Town



Teviot Student Union building on central campus at night 

The controversial contemporary architectural style of
the Scottish Parliament building

I do alright for myself. 

Friday, September 23, 2011

Sunset at Arthur's Seat

After a long day of lectures and studying, I hiked up to Arthur's Seat to watch the setting sun.






Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Starting to Worry and Another Scottish Encounter

PART I: STARTING TO WORRY

"What is something that all of us -- humanity with a capital H -- have in common? What is something that every person on the planet shares?"

The class thought for a moment, then reluctantly shared their ideas.

"Sex?"

Without hesitation, Dimitry explained that what we may think defines the sexes is not universal. For example, the Wogeo men in New Guinea force menstruation by cutting their upper thigh, and somehow are able to give birth to babies, although they know it will almost certainly kill them.

"Hunger?"

Dimitry asked us to consider the hunger felt in the Western World, and then to consider the hunger felt in Southern Sudan. Now, compare this hunger to a starvation artist, one who starves him or herself for a political cause. How much in common do these three types of hunger really have, with issues of meaning, agency, and context making them vastly different?

"The biological definition of death," one clever American said confidently.

This is where I became conflicted. Apparently, there is a tribe of people that exist in this world that don't believe in death. They believe that as one grows older, their body slowly dries up. When a loved one dies (according to our definition of death), the tribe sees them as being ill, requiring treatment and attention. The dead person lives with them, eats with them, and carries on about their (dead) business.

This emphasizes the point which I already knew: our entire world is socially constructed. Every bit of meaning, every word describing and evaluating our universe was created by a human and is therefor subjective. Objectivity is operationally impossible, as all thought is embedded within humanity and our human minds; "intersubjectivity" is the closest possible perspective to objectivity. In Anthropology, this means that every concept we assume is backed by logic and evidence is still subjective to our Western experience and negotiated with Western norms. We define death with a biological, scientific lens -- which, just so happens, is a field created by human beings, and is therefor a socially constructed perspective.

My confliction is embedded somewhere in that last sentence. If biology, science, and empiricism are Western (and Eastern) constructs, how are we to investigate and theorize upon foreign cultures? How is it possible to completely escape ones socialized nature that is a fiber of ones being? And how disappointed was I to find out that science as a whole is no longer legitimate from an Anthropological perspective. My culture, and any culture is to be repressed and avoided at all cost as it stands in the way of any clear understanding of our world. But what good is any understanding from a foreign culture or our own if it clearly has unmitigated biases?

Civilization itself was crumbling at my feet.

This is where my flatmate Juan reminded me that this was just an exercise. A first day "expand your horizons" kind of deal. Phew. Thanks, Juan. Got a little carried away there.


PART II: ANOTHER SCOTTISH ENCOUNTER, AKA "SNICKY AND THE BOYS"


Last night I went out for a pint with Erik, my Norwegian friend, at a nearby pub just a few doors down from our accommodation. Erik is a farmer interested in Nationalism Studies, as he hopes to write about Norway's political futures and effect change in areas of conservation and environmentalism. We talked about this in the tiny pub with old creaky chairs and wobbly wooden tables. A handful of locals were drinking, some alone, some chatting about a recent football match, all looking like frequent regulars. Interrupting our conversation, a very old, bald, and toothless Scottish chap leaned over our table and said "EY WHERYAFRUM?" swaying back and forth just a bit. We explained, which sent this man to react with shock while gasping "YE DON SEY LADDIES!", as if he'd never heard of a foreigner enter their tiny drinking hole before. He introduced himself to us as Snicky, as he's originally from Inverness; apparently the Scottish nickname for Inverness is "Inversnicky". Makes sense, I guess. In the next few minutes he expressed his condolences for 9/11 happening to me personally, admiration for Norway's sheep industry, and his aversion to anything English. He left us alone for the rest of the evening but bought us two additional pints and two sausage rolls.

Friday, September 16, 2011

The Case for Globalization, and Perfect Scottish Mornings

Our entire globe has apparently decided to convene in one tiny country called Scotland.

In less than a week, I have made a ridiculous amount of friends from an incredible assortment of nations from all over the world. New friends: my flatmate from Buenos Aires, Argentina (and my other flatmate from Ohio); a fellow NFL fan from Mexico City, Mexcio; my Ceilidh dancing partner from Moscow, Russia; a fellow nationalism studies enthusiast from Norway; an independent explorer from central China; a peer in Social Anthropology from Poland; a social scientist from Montreal, Canada; a goofy rugby fan from Queensland, Australia; and another Social Anthropology student from York, UK (who studied at Oxford - wow!). The only problem I'm having making new friends is remembering how to pronounce their names!

I feel incredibly lucky to be at a university with such a global pull. The exchange of ideas and culture in the classroom alone will be fascinating, not to mention how amazing it will be to get to know these people on a deeper level. They all represent such a wide variety of experience and outlook; I can't think of a better place to begin my studies in anthropology.

On a separate note, I had quite a Scottish experience this morning. I went for a jog towards Hollyrood Park, which holds the rock face that is very distinguishable in most photographs of Edinburgh. Trails lead around the rock face up to a craggy hill locals call Arthur's Peak, the highest point in the city, which is quite an intensive climb. As I arrived on the dirt path leading around the rock face, I heard bagpipe music. 200 yards away in a green valley hidden between the rock face and the peak, a bagpiper dressed in traditional Scottish tartan practiced traditional song. The music followed me as the trail began to ascend. I decided to take a breath by some rocks set along the hillside. As I got closer to the stones, I noticed a crumbling building overlooking the city, tucked away from the main trail -- St Anthony's Chapel, as it turns out, built in the 15th and last repaired in the 16th century. I sat in the ruined chapel's doorway on the hillside of Arthur's Seat and watched the city move with the bagpiper's music in my ear. In that moment, I thought about how grateful I was to be exposed to this beautiful country, and proud of myself for getting here. For me, that was a profound and euphoric experience.

At the end of my first week of induction, I am feeling at home, enthusiastic, and frankly, a little blown away. This must be what the "honeymoon" stage of culture shock feels like. I'm enjoying it! Next stage: "hostility"!

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Graduate School -- Begin.

First meeting with the Social Anthropology postgraduate (as the UK calls them, Americans just call them graduate students) group today, and I was pleasantly surprised to learn of the size and makeup of the group for the first time.

30 students and 14 nations -- Bulgaria, Belgium, Greece, Germany, Argentina, Mexico, China, South Korea, Georgia, Poland, Spain, England, Scotland, and the United States -- are represented in the University of Edinburgh Social Anthropology MSc class of 2012. Americans from New York, Seattle, Baltimore, Atlanta, Berkeley, and Texas. So cool.

We introduced ourselves, then our program director (who is also from Greece) explained the most important rule of graduate school:

Don't. Worry.

He told us first semester may be torture; we will feel disoriented, challenged, confused, and lost, but it will get easier. Slowly, he said, everything will work itself out, and we will graduate. I'd like to trust him on that.


My current view from the Central Library. Click to see a larger version.

I'm close to deciding the courses I'll be taking this year. Here's my working schedule so far:

1st Semester (starting on Monday!):
An Introduction to Anthropological Theory
Advanced Anthropological Theory
Culture and Power
Himalayan Ethnography

2nd Semester:
Ethnography Seminar
Belief, Thought, and Language
Human Origins and the Genesis of Symbolic Thought
The Invention of History
Globalization

Summer:
Dissertation

In fact, I just now discovered the course called The Invention of History, about the social process of remembering, the cultural importance of artifacts and archeology, and the relationship between nationalism and memory. That is exactly what I was hoping to get, in bits and pieces, from some of these other courses. That was my emphasis as an undergraduate and is something of a fringe subject in the social sciences -- I've only heard of universities offering full courses on it. But it so happens that here, in Edinburgh, they have it wrapped up in one neat little package just for me. I am inexpressibly excited for this year of unabashed geekery to begin.

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Welcome to the University of Edinburgh, Scotland

Greetings from Pottersrow Student Union on the University of Edinburgh campus in central Edinburgh. This is my fourth day in the country (fifth if you count my day spent at London Heathrow Airport waiting for my luggage to arrive), and I'm still recovering from severe jetlag. My voyage over could have gone smoother, largely due to an insane itinerary created by yours truly, but I survived and saved several hundred dollars in the process.

Western side of the Royal Mile
Anyway, I'm here, living in Scotland for at least the next year. I'm getting a Masters of Science (MSc) in a division of the social sciences called Social Anthropology. I was looking into Sociology, Anthropology, School Psychology, and School Counseling programs around the Northwest, and somehow Edinburgh emerged as the cheapest and most viable option. So jettison myself I did from the corner of the world I feel most comfortable to a tiny island across the world populated by strange accents.

Quick facts about Scotland
Population: 5.2 million (for reference, the population of New York City is 8.1 million)
Capital: Edinburgh
Largest city: Glasgow

Fun fact: Scotland was the home to the Scottish Enlightenment in the 18th century, which was a revolution of philosophy and literature. Scotland is ranked #1 in the world in producing important research when academic citations are weighted by GDP. Scots pride themselves on their contributions to Western Society by inventing the dishwasher, the steam engine, penicillin, and Dolly the Sheep. Here's a fine quote by Winston Churchill:
"Of all the small nations of this earth, perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind."
Teviot Student Union and Bristo Square
Quick facts about the University of Edinburgh
Built: 1583 -- the first university commissioned after the split with the Catholic Church. The King of England approved the construction of the University without consulting the Pope for the first time in English history.
Student population: 29,000
Number of postgraduate students: 8,000 (30,000 total applicants)
16 alumni Nobel Prize winners.
Famous alumni: David Hume, Sir Walter Scott, Charles Darwin, Adam Smith
Member of the Russell Group, a membership of elite UK universities similar to the US Ivy League
Tops all other Russell universities in terms of employability -- 95% of graduates enter work or further study immediately after graduation
Ranked in the top 20 world universities in 2011, #1 in Scotland and #6 in the UK.

Today I attended a welcome lecture for postgraduate students in a lecture hall called New School, an ironic name for such an ancient building. It was made of blackened brick and had winding stone steps that lead students from the High Street to its front gates. A Scottish Gothic cathedral can be seen towering over the courtyard. Inside, about 200 students sit in layered parish benches surrounded by ancient wooden pillars carved with symbology, stained glass windows overlay an overcast afternoon, while a busker's bagpipe music seeps through the walls from the Royal Mile.

School of Divinity's "New School"
The University is the center of Edinburgh. The campus is fully integrated, part ancient and part modern. Quite a bit of campus is being renovated, but there are still plenty of quiet areas to sit and take a breath. Four student union buildings offer what seems like two dozen student pubs, which I have yet to try. In fact, I haven't been to a single pub yet. Next thing on my to-do list.

This week is "Freshers Week", a week long orientation packed full of social events, information sessions, and academic meetings. Tonight is the Ceilidh (pronounced like Kay-lee), which is a Gaelic folk dance party from what I understand. I am too curious not to attend.

One thing that has surprised me actually has been how few Scots I've met. They seem to be a severe minority, at least in the groups I've been in during Freshers Week. The student population is extraordinarily international -- I've made friends from Argentina, China, Canada, and the US. Perhaps the elusive Scots will appear in heavier numbers when classes start this Monday.

That's all for now, stay tuned for further updates about the University, Edinburgh, and my flat. Thanks for checking in!

Take care,

Will